How Far Is Too Far to Walk Back?

Sekondi–Takoradi, Ghana

We decided not to take an organized excursion. The descriptions looked similar to the stop in Côte d'Ivoire, and neither of us felt compelled to be moved around the city again in a bus. Instead, we took the shuttle to Market Circle, planning to people watch at the market and make our way to a local restaurant if we felt safe.

When the shuttle stopped, it wasn't at a market. It was more like a makeshift taxi stand — and not one that made me comfortable leaving the bus. A man boarded and explained that the road to the market was under construction, but taxis were available and the area was safe.

I hesitated. I considered staying on the shuttle and returning to the ship. Shirley suggested we get out and take a taxi to one of the hotel restaurants we had identified earlier. It was less than two miles away. We agreed.

The man at the taxi stand explained that the cost was $20 USD for an hour and that the driver would wait for us. We agreed and were escorted to a taxi. It was old and beat up. The windows didn't roll up and the doors didn't open from the outside. It sputtered as it pulled away and continued to do so for the entire ride. In only a few minutes we made it to the restaurant and were shown in and seated.

The hotel restaurant felt like a small island of order. We were seated quickly. Despite it being around 1:00 pm, there was only one other patron in the place. I asked whether we could pay by credit card or in U.S. dollars, since we didn't have local currency. The waiter assured us that either would be fine.

Shirley asked for a recommendation and we ordered — fried rice with goat meat and plantains for me, chicken and seafood for Shirley, and two beers. The food was good and the portions were large.

When it came time to pay, the credit card machine didn't work. They tried three times, with three different machines. The manager was called. We offered U.S. dollars. He calculated an amount, and we paid. As we were leaving, the waiter stopped us and said they had miscalculated. Ten more dollars would cover it. I checked the exchange rate. He was right. I handed him the money.

We returned to the taxi and got in. The engine started, but was clearly still unreliable. We made it back to the shuttle stop without incident. I paid the driver. We boarded the shuttle and returned to the ship.

Later, Shirley mentioned that during the drive she had been quietly scanning the route, noting places we could go if the car broke down.

That detail stayed with me.

The lesson wasn't just about distance. It was about terrain — about knowing whether you could walk back through a place, not just how far it was. About having options if a credit card machine didn't work. About remembering that many of the assumptions we carry from home — reliable vehicles, working payment systems, easy exits — don't always apply.

Thankfully, nothing bad happened. That's the point.